Pressing Techniques (Jōsō): Arabashiri, Nakadori, Seme, and Fukurozuri

The words "arabashiri" and "nakadori" on a back label refer to the order in which the sake was pressed. The process of pressing the fermenting mash is called jōsō (上槽, "raising the tank"), and both the pressing method and the order in which the liquid emerges shape the character of the finished sake. Once you can read these terms and the flavor tendencies behind them, the labels on limited-edition bottles become a real guide for choosing. For where pressing fits into the full brewing process, see The Brewing Process; here we'll take a deep dive into pressing on its own.

Jōsō: the step that separates moromi into sake and lees

Jōsō (上槽) is the process of pressing the fully fermented moromi (もろみ, fermenting mash) to separate it into clear sake and sake lees (kasu). It's also called "shibori" (搾り, "pressing").

By this stage, moromi is a thick, cloudy mixture of fermented rice, koji (麹, mold-cultured rice), and water. Jōsō is what draws out only the clear liquid from that mixture; the solid residue left behind becomes sake lees. It comes near the end of sake brewing, followed by filtration, pasteurization, and dilution with water.

Three pressing methods, distinguished by how pressure is applied

Pressing methods fall into three categories: the automatic press, the traditional funa-shibori press, and fukurozuri (bag-hanging). They differ in how much pressure is applied and how much manual effort goes in.

The automatic press, commonly nicknamed "Yabuta" after a well-known manufacturer, is the mainstream method today. Dozens of filter plates and pressure plates are stacked alternately, moromi is fed between them, and air pressure squeezes out the sake. Because it delivers consistent quality in a short time, most breweries rely on it.

Funa-shibori (槽搾り, "trough pressing") is the traditional method. A fune (槽) is a box-shaped device in which cloth bags are stacked. Bags filled with moromi are arranged in the fune, and gentle pressure is applied from above to press out the sake. It takes more effort, but allows fine control over how much pressure is applied.

Fukurozuri (袋吊り, "bag hanging") applies no pressure at all. Bags filled with moromi are hung up, and only the drops that fall naturally under their own weight are collected, hence its other name, shizukudori (雫取り, "drop collecting"). While "fukurozuri" names the pressing method itself, the practice of catching those drops jug by jug in 18-liter glass jugs called tobin (斗瓶) and storing them separately is called tobin-gakoi (斗瓶囲い). Because it takes considerable effort and yields little sake, it's mostly used for competition entries and daiginjo. In recent years, a centrifuge method that separates the liquid using centrifugal force alone, with no pressure applied, has also come into use.

How much pressure shapes how much off-flavor comes through

The pressure applied during pressing shapes the resulting flavor profile. The gentler the press, the less off-flavor tends to come through. Applying strong pressure tends to squeeze out fine particles that would otherwise stay in the lees (proteins, amino acids, and the compounds behind bitterness and astringency), along with the sake itself. This is why fukurozuri tends to produce a more delicate sake.

That said, pressure-free methods aren't inherently superior. Plenty of high-quality sake is made with an automatic press. The pressing method is one factor shaping flavor direction, not a yardstick for ranking quality.

Three stages by pressing order: arabashiri, nakadori, seme

Even within a single pressing run, the flavor changes depending on when the liquid emerges. These three stages are called arabashiri, nakadori, and seme. Because clear liquid flows out first under low pressure, and the final portion is squeezed out under strong pressure at the end, the character shifts in sequence.

Arabashiri (荒走り, "rough run") is what flows out naturally at the very start of pressing. It can be slightly cloudy and often carries a hint of dissolved gas, giving it a fresh, lively edge. It tends to taste young and a bit rough, with alcohol content on the lower side.

Nakadori (中取り, "middle take") is the portion drawn once pressure has stabilized in the middle of the run, also called nakagumi (中汲み) or nakadare (中垂れ). It's prized for its clarity and well-balanced aroma and flavor.

Seme (責め, "the finishing press") is the final portion, squeezed out under strong pressure at the end. It comes out concentrated and slightly higher in alcohol, but that same concentration also makes off-flavors more likely to show through.

Quick reference: arabashiri, nakadori, seme

The table below summarizes the three stages from the previous section, enough to check at a glance while browsing the shelf. Keep in mind these are general tendencies; individual breweries and brews vary.

Most sake blends all three stages back together into a single bottling. When arabashiri or nakadori is bottled separately, it's sold as a limited release.

How it relates to later labels like "muroka namagenshu"

Sake straight out of the press isn't a finished product yet. After jōsō comes filtration, pasteurization, and dilution with water. Filtration adjusts cloudiness and color, pasteurization heat-treats the sake to stabilize it, and dilution brings the alcohol content down to its final level.

When one of these later steps is skipped, the label reflects it. Muroka (無濾過) means unfiltered, nama (生, "raw") means never pasteurized, and genshu (原酒, "original sake") means undiluted, at full pressed strength. Note, though, that "genshu" and "namazake" are official terms defined in the National Tax Agency's labeling standards, while "muroka" is an optional label with no formal definition in those standards. When all three combine, you get muroka namagenshu (無濾過生原酒), a sake close to its pressed state, with a bold, concentrated character. The distinctions between these terms are covered in detail in Pasteurization and Namazake.

Reading limited-release labels to guide your choice

Once you can read the language of pressing, a single bottle on the shelf starts to hint at its flavor. For labels describing pressing order, arabashiri signals a fresh, lively edge, while nakadori or nakagumi points to a calmer, well-balanced profile. For labels describing pressing method, fukurozuri or tobin-gakoi signals a delicate sake made without applied pressure.

None of these terms guarantee flavor. They're simply hints of a tendency. Even two bottles both labeled nakadori can taste quite different depending on the brewery and the brew. Treat the label as a starting point, then taste and judge for yourself. That's the practical approach. For a fuller guide to reading labels overall, see How to Read a Sake Label. Add the vocabulary of pressing to that, and you have one more layer of information you can read straight off a back label.

• This article is intended for readers of legal drinking age (20 in Japan). Please drink responsibly. Avoid alcohol during pregnancy or breastfeeding, and never drink and drive.